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LITHOPHANE – CASTING and FIRING
(See bottom paragraphs for information on how to cast and fire Lithophane base.)
Lithophane is the generic name for a porcelain art form dating back to the 1800’s. The word is a combination of “Litho” from lithography, the art of producing a picture on a flat, specially prepared stone, and ”phane” from the middle part of the Latin-derived word “(dia)phane(ous)”, or translucent.
Skilled German sculptors carved motifs into wax. The effect in the porcelain, cast in the molds taken from these wax models, comes from the variations in thickness of the translucent porcelain. The thinner parts let more light through and the thicker parts provide the darker shades. This way, the lithophane becomes like a three-dimensional painting with the light passing through, dictating the motif. It is beautiful and became a rage in the Victorian period in Europe, approximately between 1840 to 1920. These pictures in porcelain were used as window hangings, lampshades, night-lights, fire screens, teapot warmers and more. They were either decorated with china painting or un-decorated, letting the beauty of the porcelain combined with the light give it life.
Now, you can create this magic for your home. Thanks to a cooperation between the world-class team of David Failing and Pat Schmidt, sculptor and decorating artist respectively, on one hand, and Seeley’s on the other, molds are now available to you. This revival of an old art form will be a showpiece and heirloom for everybody.
We have four molds at this time, Tea Rose, Candlelight, Snowbonnet and Victoria – all are romantic touches for your home. They should be china painted, using Seeley’s Decorator China Paints, on the flat back side and displayed on a base (base for making a porcelain base is available from Seeley’s). The base has a round slot for a clip-on light fixture (which is also available from Seeley’s for USA, Europe and UK), which provides the light shining through the lithophane. You will need this light during the decorating process as well.
How to Make the Lithophanes
Casting
The molds are open-faced. Follow these instructions carefully for the casting. The molds are accompanied by a kit containing two Masonite boards, a flat leveler and two tongue depressors.
Use one of the following of Seeley’s white porcelains or a combination of them: Pearl White (PS-3), Nordic White (PS-24),or Pure White (PS-25).
1. Stir porcelain slip to creamy consistency, strain away any air bubbles or simply let it sit for 15-30 minutes for any bubbles to rise to the surface. Using a pitcher, pour the slip slowly from one side of the mold cavity to the other, moving the stream from the pitcher from left to right (if you are right-handed). With your left hand hold the leveler flat on the mold over the cavity and “push” away the excess slip, following the movement of your pitcher.
2. After reaching the end of the cavity with the stream of slip the cavity will be full. Optional: Push the leveler back across the mold in the other direction. The pouring will not take more than 10-20 seconds. It is a bit tricky the first time, but you will soon get used to coordinating the movements of your hands. By doing it this way, you ensure that the slip is “pressed” well into the mold cavity and that you get as flat a back to the casting as possible.
3. When the sheen of the slip disappears, clean away excess slip on the sides of the mold with a Plastic Mold Scraper.
4. Let the casting set for 8-10 minutes.
5. When you see the casting starting to separate from the mold, place the tongue depressors on the sides of the mold, free of the cavity.
6. Now, place one of the Masonite boards (unpainted side down) on top of the depressors. Holding the mold and the board together, turn them over and place them flat on a table. The mold will now be on top.
7. Because of the small opening between the casting and the tongue depressors, you can easily see when the casting is releasing. Let it release, without strain, onto the board. You may have to tap the mold against the side of a table to help it release. (You can be quite firm here.) Be sure to tap the side of the mold that has the board on it so that the piece can release onto the board. If it does not come out, tap harder. (If you have trouble getting the piece out of the mold, do NOT use popout. Just tap firmly on the side of a table again. It will release in time.) Timing of the release is essential to avoid dryness and stress cracks in the casting. While the casting is on its back on the flat board. Correct any imperfections by removing them with a damp, small KwikClean Brush (SBR92 or SBR93).
8. Place the other Masonite board on top of the casting. The casting will be sandwiched between the two boards. Flip the boards over.
9. You now have the back of the casting facing you. Smooth the rim of the casting with a damp synthetic sponge (SPONGE5). Turn casting over again and let it dry face up. Because of its thinness, it will dry fast.
Firing
When the casting is bone dry, prepare the kiln for a cone 6 firing by spreading a thin layer of Hydrated Alumina or Firing Sand on the shelf. Gently place the casting flat on the shelf, face down. You may move it back and forth ever so gently to ensure that it is absolutely flat against the kiln shelf with a thin layer of sand/alumina in between. Place three witness cones (5,6 and 7) at strategic places around the casting.
Fire on low for an hour, then turn to medium for three hours. After that time, turn to high and leave it until the kiln shuts off.
When kiln is cool, open and admire your lithophane, which is now ready for china painting.
China Painting
Paint on the back side (flat side) of the piece while it is in the stand with the light on behind the pane.
You only need two brushes – a medium filbert (SBR32A) and a small pointed brush (SBR48, lip definer). Feel free to choose the colors of your liking from Seeley’s Decorator line of paints. We recommend “Cardinal” red (DDCP45) for the Tea Rose, and Torrid Red (DDCP48) for the Candle.
For the Tea Rose, use the green color of your choice, such as Jungle Green (DDCP105) and Green Apple (DDCP108). To create increased intensity, apply a second coat, fire and then – if you like – a third coat and fire again.
For the candlelight, choose an intense yellow for the flame, such as Sungold (DDCP101). For the green holly you may pick the Jungle Green (DDCP105) with touches around the outer edge of Egyptian Turquoise (DDCP106). For increased depth, apply another coat and fire again.
Congratulations! You have now created something very special for your home. As a night-light it gives a soft glow to your room. Without the light on (or daylight behind), you basically only see the porcelain. When you turn on the light, the magic unfolds.
Lithophane Base:
Cast the base in the same porcelain color as your Lithophane, or use a pastel pink (Shell Pink) or yellow (Satin Yellow) or black (Ebony) for a contrast. Cast as usual. Carefully cut out the inside of the round hole so that you can insert the clip-on light fixture after it is fired. Be sure not to squeeze the hole, so that it is misshapen.
When firing the base, insert a small amount of Seeley’s porcelain prop (item #PORPROP) inside the base and a small amount on the shelf to provide support at its center.
At the top temperature of firing, it turns to a semi-melted, glassy mass and , in the case of certain designs, is sensitive to sagging if not supported. The particular shape of our base, with its three feet in triangle, leaves the center needing additional support by the prop.
Make sure that the base sits level on the shelf. Check that the piece is not “lifted” by too much prop, as this might result in sagging around the sides, or cracking.
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